Installation
We're only going to be covering Intel LGA775 installation here since it is the most complicated of the CPU setups with the Nautilus. That being said, it really doesn't get much easier than this. We also timed our install to the second to give you an idea how long it takes to install the Nautilus500. We had an asetek VapoChill Micro in there previously, so we never needed to remove our ASUS P5N32SLI Deluxe motherboard, therefore, for the purposes of this experiment, we are starting the installation with the motherboard already installed in the case. Remember that if you have some custom installed air or water cooler with special installation brackets, you will need to remove your board to remove those parts.
We should point out that while we are water cooling veterans, we did read the instructions twice. We kept the manual on standby in case we needed to refer to it, so all the times recorded include manual referencing if required. We timed our install on the first run, then took everything apart for the pictures you'll see during the installation procedures below.
The nylon standoffs for the LGA775 installation has two ends. The more narrow of the ends is what goes into the motherboard. Snap each end into the four holes surrounding the socket, making sure you hear a click for each, and you're done. Total time was 33 seconds.
Next up is thermal paste, CPU block and the resistance pad. We used our standard Arctic Silver 5, which took 47 seconds to apply, though we would imagine that Corsair's supplied paste would be no more difficult. The block took 23 seconds to place and align, and the foam pad took 5 seconds. Total time for this stage was 1:15 (minutes and seconds).
Once the block and pad are in place, you'll need to attach the retention plate to this. Simply line up the plate (there are two obvious cut outs for the hoses) and snap two opposite ends into the standoffs, followed by the last two. Total time here was 26 seconds.
Once the block is secure, you'll need to thread the hoses through a free PCI backplate area. Now, Corsair's instruction mention that first you install their custom backplate and thread the hose through the two openings and out the rear. Doing it their way, this took 2:45. It was at this point we stopped the clock, thought of a better solution and redid this step. I recommend threading the tubes through the free PCI are without the custom backplate in place as seen on the top left picture. This took 36 seconds. As you can see in the middle picture above, we slid the tubes into the backplate and eased the plate into place before securing it (top right). This took 32 seconds for a total of 1:08 for this step, saving a over a minute and a half.
To monitor the fan speed and pump, you'll need to plug in a couple 3-pin connections to the motherboard. The green wire is for the fan and the white wire is for the pump. This took 15 seconds, which is a bit long but mostly because we did not plan for this step (time was wasted finding a free motherboard connection). Plugging in the Molex power connection tool 13 seconds, again a long time for the same reasons above.
If you need to cut the hoses, that will add some time to the overall process. We kept the hose length as is out of the box and spent 11 seconds installing the hose barbs, and another 13 seconds installing the clamps. Corsair recommends sliding the clamps on first before the barbs to make installation easier, and we have to agree with that.
Keep in mind that the system is not easily interchangeable from PC to PC once the barbs are installed. The Nautilus500 itself can be disconnected without any issue, but the water block and hoses are stuck where they are as the barbs won't fit through the PCI spacing. You can pop them off, but you'll have to add a bit more liquid back into the system.
We're almost at the home stretch here. It took 9 seconds to install the hoses into the rear of the Nautilus and another 6 seconds to connect both ends of the power cable.
The longest part of the installation process came down to the filling. Remove the cap on top and pour in the coolant first. Once that's done, fill up the rest of the reservoir with distilled water. We turned on the unit a couple times to move water around to make sure the Nautilus is fully, uh, filled. Total time here was 2:57.
A steady hand is required, and had Corsair added a small funnel, this step would have been a bit less troublesome as seen by the small spillage in the top right picture. Another thing you'll notice is we filled it right up to the top. When we moved the unit, water spilled from the bottom of the Nautilus500. It wasn't pumping out, but we were concerned there was a leak. Corsair does pressure test the units prior to shipping, but we initially had no idea what happened. Eventually, we discovered that the reservoir and the main chassis are not fully bonded to one another. In other words, if you fill it to the point it's spilling, liquid will slip in between the reservoir and chassis. If you do this with a running system underneath, you're going to have a very bad day. Our findings were confirmed with Corsair in a conference call and we were informed that future units will have this warning updated in their manual.
Corsair's instructions state that provided your PC is already properly hooked up to your PSU, you can go ahead and fire up the computer which will automatically turn on the Nautilus500. While the system did not leak, from experience we do suggest leak testing with the main PC components off beforehand.
Those of you unfamiliar with this process, simply short pins #4 and #6 on the main ATX connection with a wire. A paper clip will do nicely. Personally, I would do this with the PSU turned off in the rear, and turn it on once I have the wire in place.
This leak test was something we debated with Corsair, and understanding the Nautilus500 is designed with novices in mind, we do think that for the sake of PC safety, it's always better to be safe than sorry. Whether you leak test or not, we do suggest letting the Nautilus run on it's own for a couple hours to let the air bubbles clear out. Tilting the main unit a little will also help make sure the unit is fully bled.
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